Electric Burner Not Working

Common Causes

On coil cooktops, start at the plug: swap the dead burner with a same-size working coil, and if the problem follows the position rather than the coil, the receptacle or switch is at fault — scorched receptacles are extremely common. A burner stuck on full power, or working only on high, is the signature of a failed infinite switch. On glass tops, a radiant element that glows partially is cracked, and one that never glows needs the element and its limiter tested.

Why Electric Burners Stop Heating

Heating elements are resistive wires that endure red heat for years, and eventually the wire develops a break — the burner simply stops producing heat. On coil cooktops the coil unplugs for easy replacement; on radiant glass tops the element sits under the glass and is replaced from inside the cooktop.

The receptacle that a coil plugs into is the weakest link in that design. Its contacts oxidize and overheat, scorching the plastic block and making contact unreliable — the classic burner that works when the coil is wiggled. A burned receptacle should be replaced together with a closely inspected coil, since damaged coil terminals will ruin a new receptacle.

Each burner is fed by an infinite switch that pulses power to hold the chosen heat level. When the switch fails, the burner may die entirely, work only on high, or — the dangerous version — stay on full power regardless of the knob. A burner that cannot be turned down should take the cooktop out of service until the switch is replaced.